1、 资本市场渠道 O 投资控股集团架构雏形 %明确集团发展目标 %建立完整的产业体系构架 %搭建有效的资本经营平台 %控股集团有效运作 目标清晰化 管理制度化 s 集团发展目标 s产业如何发展 s资本经营如何开展 s 产业集团如何转化为控 股集团 Date35 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 从企业的生命周期模型分析，杉杉集团处于扩张和持 续发展的态势 v 企业生命周期模型 成长阶段老化阶段 婴儿期 学步期 青春期 盛年期 稳定期 贵族期 官僚化早期 官僚化晚期 死亡期 钟型曲线表示企业活力 ，即企业在短期和长期 取得效率和效果的能力 。
2、杉杉 &企业生命周期具有可逆性。 企业的生命可以人为改变。 &企业的生命具有跳跃性。在 成长期可能死亡，在官僚期 也可以跳跃回盛年期。 Date36 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 企业生命周期各阶段特征描述 成长期老化期 婴儿期生存，根据危机进行管理 学步期机会优先，常因同时涉足太多事业而陷入窘境 被动的销售导向 快速成长，管理造成了危机 缺乏连续性和重点 因人而设的企业 创业者陷阱 青春期管理制度化 盛年期企业的制度和组织结构能充分发挥作用 事业的开拓与创造力的发挥已制度化 企业的预算富于进去性，与实际之间的 差距也能让人接受 稳定期
3、 预算方面用于研究的人力物力减少了 用于发展的投入增加了 企业中的权利更迭 贵族期 钱被花在控制系统、福利措施和一般设备上 强调做事的方式，而非内容 内部缺乏创新 目标越来越短期化 官僚期 企业制度繁多，行之无效。 企业丧失对环境的感应和对内部的控制 Date37 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 杉杉集团现阶段发展特征总结 杉杉正处在第二次创业向第三次创业过渡阶段，表现出扩张与持续发展的态势。 杉杉已经具备了进一步扩张的实力，并构建了基本的产业架构，企业具备很好的 成长性。 从企业生命周期理论分析，杉杉集团在婴儿期获得了生命，是一种实际意
4、义的诞 生；到了青春期，企业要脱离创业者的影响而再生，则是一种感情意义上的诞生。 在生命周期的前两个阶段（婴儿期和学步期），创业者和企业是一体的。但是随 着企业的发展，企业的行为特征表现出矛盾和缺乏连续性。 杉杉集团目前表现出企业青春期的特征与需求，需要通过实现制度化与规范化管 理，进而实现企业的可持续发展。 Date38 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 内部环境分析 杉杉集团发展历程及所处阶段 杉杉集团的发展历程 杉杉集团处于第二次创业向第三次创业过渡阶段 杉杉集团处于扩张和持续发展的态势 杉杉集团现状分析 产业发展现状 财务资源现状（
5、略） 人力资源现状 组织现状 企业文化现状 杉杉集团核心能力分析 企业核心能力的定义和特征 企业核心能力在竞争优势上的表现 创新是杉杉集团的核心能力 创新作为企业核心能力的特征 创新在其他产业延伸，并与杉杉集团发展战略相结合 目 录 Date39 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 产业发展现状 杉杉集团已初步构架起自己的产业体系，但这个体系在结构上存在缺陷。杉杉集团的产业 体系结构特征表现为：单一（只有一项第一层面业务），弱二（第二层面业务还没有完全形成 ），多三（第三层面业务点多面广），这种产业格局对杉杉集团战略目标的实现，缺乏较强的 支
6、撑力。 第一层面业务：服装 第二层面业务：CMS、铜箔 第三层面业务：芜湖生物科技、 自动化仪表、面电热、环保、润 科电讯、证券、房地产等 核心业务 提供现金，培育技能 ，作为增长资源。 崛起中的业务 专注地追求收入和市 场份额的扩张，需要 不断追加投资。 未来的候选业务 企业的研究课题、市 场试点、联盟项目、 少量投资的尝试。 Date40 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 人力资源现状 缺乏高素质、专家型的管理和经营人才 目前人才主要集中在服装领域，人才结构不合理 人力资源管理 处于档案管理阶段，只是事务性管理。从“集团公司各机构职责
7、与岗位设置状况”可以看出，集团公司人力资源部的工作主要由总裁 办一名人事主管承担，只能办理一些诸如员工入职、退工、合同、档 案、社保等事务性工作。 缺乏一致的考评规则，不能科学地评价人才，尚未实现层级考核 管理。 尚未建立人才系统培养、规范引进的管理体系。 Date41 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 组织现状 杉杉集团公司是产业经营与资本运作的兼营主体 杉杉集团光靠产业经营已不能充分发挥其资源优势 杉杉集团产业除服装板块外，科技产业还处于培育期，投资还处于实验、试 点期，集团公司还必须承担其战略指导和协调发展的任务 杉杉集团的资本运作还
8、依赖于产业经营对企业品牌的提升，依赖于产业经营 对资本融通的支持 当前组织机构设置存在严重缺失 没有专门的机构或专门的人员进行战略研究 除服装服饰外，对其它多元投资没有专门的管理部门 没有专门的机构负责资本的融通和资金的计划管理 当前组织运行缺乏规则，组织管理随机化，并过分依赖权威 缺少完整的制度体系。有制度，很实用，但不系统 执行制度的资源和手段缺乏 注重对点的管理,管理欠缺系统性、前瞻性 公司管理过分依赖企业家的经验、能力和魅力 注重方式的创新，缺乏对管理的重视 Date42 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 企业文化现状 杉杉现有的企
9、业文化理念还未成为企业共同的核 心价值观 文化的内容体系不完整，还没有系统、清晰地提 出或表述自己在经营、管理、体制构建等方面的价 值理念 杉杉的企业理念没有进行明确、具体、统一的阐 释 企业内部没有形成较强的规则意识 员工对企业家的忠诚还没有转化成为对企业的忠 诚 缺乏对企业家思想、理念、思路的系统化总结和 提升；企业家与管理团队缺乏沟通 缺乏在员工中传播企业文化的渠道和形式 共同核心价值观的特征： 公司绝大多数成员认同 在公司的制度中得以体现， 在行动中得以执行 Date43 中国杉杉集团有限公司20032010年发展战略 捷 盟 咨 询 ApproaChina 内部环境分析 杉杉集团发展
10、历程及所处阶段 杉杉集团的发展历程 杉杉集团处于第二次创业向第三次创业过渡阶段 杉杉集瓪瓪举报。 2.审计监察部接到情况举报后立案。 3.立案后组织人员进行调查，根据调查事实提出处理意见，交主管副社长审核。 4.在权限范围内，主管领导负责审核，审核后做出处理决定，交人力资源部执行。 5.如不属于主管领导权限范围，提交社委会审核。 6.社委会审核后，做出处理决定，交人力资源部执行。 7.人力资源部执行处理决定后，将执行情况归档。 47 THE GLOBAL APPAREL VALUE CHAIN: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countr
11、ies UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION economy environment employment s e c t o r a l s t u d i e s s e r i e s UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna, 2003 THE GLOBAL APPAREL VALUE CHAIN: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries Gary Gereffi Department
12、 of Sociology, Duke University Durham, USA and Olga Memedovic UNIDO, Strategic Research and Economics Branch s e c t o r a l s t u d i e s s e r i e s This paper has not been formally edited. The views expressed therein, the designations employed as well as the presentation of material in this publi
13、cation do not imply the expressions of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Secretariat of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundar
14、ies. Designations such as “industrialized”, “developed” and “developing” countries are intended for statistical convenience and do not necessarily express a judgement about the stage reached by a particular country or area in the development process. Mention of firm names or commercial products does
15、 not imply endorsement by UNIDO. Material in this paper may be freely quoted but acknowledgement is requested, together with a copy of the publication containing the quotation or reprint. ii Acknowledgement This publication has been prepared by Gary Gereffi, Department of Sociology, Duke University,
16、 and Olga Memedovic, UNIDO staff member from the Strategic Research and Economics Branch. Frdric Richard, Director of the Strategic Research and Economics Branch, provided overall guidance. UNIDO intern Arjan Stavast provided assistance. The authors are grateful to Mr. John-Peter Moll, UNIDO expert
17、on textile and clothing, for providing his comments during the preparation of this paper. Penelope Plowden and Georgina Wilde were the principal English language editors of the publication. Penny Butler was the copy-editor. iii Blank Contents Acknowledgement iii Abstract vii Introduction 1 Global va
18、lue chains 2 Big buyers and global sourcing 6 Global sourcing in apparel 8 Apparel sourcing in North America 16 European and Japanese variations in apparel sourcing networks 22 World market trends 26 Conclusion 31 References 33 Tables Table 1 Trends in United States apparel imports by region and cou
19、ntry, 1983-2001 10 Table 2 Worlds 25 leading apparel exporters, 1980, 1990 and 2000 27 Table 3 Position of apparel among leading export items, 1980-2000 30 Figures Figure 1 The apparel value chain 5 Figure 2 Shifts in the regional structure of United States apparel imports, 1990-2000 18 Figure 3 Shi
20、fts in the regional structure of European apparel imports, 1990-2000 24 Figure 4 Shifts in the regional structure of Japanese apparel imports, 1990-2000 25 v Boxes Box 1 International production systems 1 Box 2 WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing 12 vi Abstract The paper uses the global value cha
21、in framework to explain the transformations in production, trade and corporate strategies that altered the apparel industry over the past decades and changed the conditions for innovation and learning in the industry. The apparel industry is identified as a buyer-driven value chain that contains thr
22、ee types of lead firms: retailers, marketers and branded manufacturers. With the globalization of apparel production, competition between the leading firms in the industry has intensified as each type of lead firm has developed extensive global sourcing capabilities. While “de-verticalizing” out of
23、production, these firms are fortifying their activities in the high value-added design and marketing segments of the apparel chain, leading to a blurring of the boundaries between them and a realignment of interests within the chain. Innovation in the global apparel value chain is primarily associat
24、ed with the shift from assembly to full-package production. Full-package production changes fundamentally the relationship between buyer and supplier giving more autonomy to the supplying firm and creating more possibilities for innovation and learning. The paper distinguishes between three new mode
25、ls of competition in the North American market namely the East Asian, Mexican and Caribbean Basin model. Each model presents different perspectives and challenges for industrial innovation and learning. vii Blank The Global Apparel Value Chain: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries? 1
26、 Introduction Although it is generally accepted that the clothing industry played a leading role in East Asias early export growth, the degree to which international trade can be the basis of sustained economic growth for developing countries has been questioned. Under what conditions can trade-base
27、d growth be a vehicle for genuine industrial upgrading, given the frequent criticisms of low- wage, low-skill, assembly-oriented export activities? Do Asias accomplishments in trade-led industrialization contain significant lessons for other regions of the world? This report will look at these and r
28、elated questions, using a global value chain framework. A value chain is the range of activities involved in the design, production and marketing of a product, although there is a critical distinction between buyer-driven and producer-driven value chains. Japan in the 1950s and 1960s, the East Asian
29、 newly industrializing economies (NIEs) in the 1970s and 1980s and China in the 1990s became world-class exporters primarily by mastering the dynamics of buyer-driven value chains. Box 1 International production systems Assembly is a form of industrial subcontracting, in which garment sewing plants
30、are provided with imported inputs for assembly, most commonly in export processing zones (EPZs). Original equipment manufacturing (OEM) is a form of commercial subcontracting. The supplying firm makes a product according to a design specified by the buyer; the product is sold under the buyers brand
31、name; the supplier and buyer are separate firms; and the buyer lacks control over distribution. Original brand name manufacturing (OBM) is the upgrading by manufacturers from the production expertise of OEM to first the design and then the sale of their own brand products. The key to East Asias succ
32、ess was the move from mere assembly of imported inputs (traditionally associated with export processing zones or EPZs) to a more domestically integrated and higher value-added form of exporting known as full-package supply or OEM (original equipment manufacturing) production (see Box 1). (Throughout
33、 this report, OEM production, specification contracting and full-package supply will be used as broadly synonymous terms. In addition, assembly, production sharing and outward processing refer to similar processes, even though a specific term may be favoured in a particular region.) Japanese compani
34、es and some firms in the East Asian NIEs moved on from OEM export to original brand name manufacturing (OBM), supplementing their production expertise with the design and then the sale of their own branded merchandise at home and abroad. The OEM model at the international level is a form of commerci
35、al subcontracting in which the buyer-seller linkage between overseas buyers and The purpose of this paper 1 The Global Apparel Value Chain: What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries? 2 domestic manufacturers allows for a greater degree of local learning about the upstream and downstream s
36、egments of the apparel chain. East Asias ability to establish links with a wide range of lead firms in buyer- driven chains enabled it to make the transition from assembly to full-package supply. Lead firms are the primary sources of material inputs, technology transfer and knowledge. In the apparel
37、 value chain, different types of lead firms use different networks and source from different parts of the world. Retailers and marketers in developed countries tend to rely on full-package sourcing networks, buying ready-made apparel primarily from Asia, where manufacturers in Hong Kong (now named a
38、s Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China), Taiwan Province of China and the Republic of Korea historically specialized in this type of production. But as wages have risen, multilayered sourcing networks have been developed; low- wage assembly can be done in other parts of Asia, Afric
39、a or Latin America while the NIE manufacturers coordinate the full-package production process. Branded manufacturers, by contrast, tend to create production networks that focus on apparel assembly using imported inputs. Full-package sourcing networks are generally global and the production networks
40、of branded manufacturers are predominantly regional. Manufacturers in the United States of America use Mexico and the Caribbean Basin, European Union (EU) firms look to North Africa and Eastern Europe, and Japan and the East Asian NIEs to lower-wage regions within Asia. First, the global value chain
41、 framework will be outlined, with emphasis on the structure and dynamics of buyer-driven chains. Second, the role of each of the big buyers (retailers, marketers and manufacturers) in forging global sourcing networks in the apparel value chain is examined. Third, the evolution and upgrading of appar
42、el sourcing networks in Asia are considered. Industrial upgrading in the Asian context is examined through the process of building, extending, coordinating and completing international production and trade networks. Fourth, the implications of the Asian experience for apparel sourcing in North Ameri
43、ca and Europe are assessed. Both regions are moving beyond assembly production and establishing full-package or OEM models in order to promote regionally integrated apparel value chains. The Japanese pattern of apparel sourcing, which is highly concentrated on a few suppliers, is contrasted with the
44、 American and European patterns, and the differences are traced to trade policy. The final section of the report offers conclusions regarding upgrading options within the global apparel industry. Global value chains In global capitalism, economic activity is international in scope and global in orga
45、nization. “Internationalization” refers to the geographic spread of economic activities across national boundaries. As such, it is not a new phenomenon. It has been a prominent feature of the world economy since at least the seventeenth century when colonial powers began to carve up the world in search of raw materials and new markets. “Globalization” is more recent, implying functional integration between internationally dispersed activities. The organization of the paper There are two types of global value chains 2 The Glob
